DERBY HATS & BOWLER HATS In the United States, this hat is known as a "Derby". But in England it is known as a "Bowler". The derby is a dome-shaped rigid hat with a curled small brim and is traditionally made of stiff felt. It was created for an Englishman, James Coke in 1850s, and made stiff to protect the head. Peaking in popularity towards the end of the 19th century, it offered a midway between the formality of the top hat associated with the upper classes and the casual nature of soft felt hats worn by the lower middle classes. It was usually worn with suits or overcoats and symbolized male power dressing. It was the traditional headwear of London city 'gents' and has become something of a British cultural icon.